Monday 8 March 2010

Lima

I've only been in Lima for one little day, so what can I possibly say?
It's definitely been a tough one - both physically and emotionally. Physically, because back in London in the craziness of booking this whole trip I didnt pay attention to my departure times. So this (and lukcily its the only one) flight earlier in the morning from Rio to Lima departed at 6 AM, which meant I had to be at the aiport at 3.30 am, which is why I thought I'd skip the night at the hotel and in order not to risk huge traffic and missing the flight altogether, arrived at the airport already at midnight and spent the night there. Wasnt lots of fun but at least didnt miss my flight!

So arriving at 10 am in Lima, + 30 outside, city seems even bigger and noiser than Rio. The hostel receptionist tells me to take the bus to the centre, but a nice Peruvian lady met on the street advises by no means not to travel by bus by myself - take the taxi instead! The other hostel guest met at the reception says he's seen other people almost robbed and himself being unpleasantly approached. But there are about 20 taxi companies cruising the unorganised streets - and only one third of them are official not posing you the risk of being violently attacked during your ride. Best thing to do is leave all your personal belongings at the hotel, which I do, but can't leave one thing behind which is meant to be the centre of my trip - the camera!! I hide it in a linen ' No to Climate Change' bag from COP 16 and take the risk.

Me having slept just a few hours and with the lingering feeling of being robbed any second I hit the downtown Lima but can't relax and enjoy city fully if constantly have to look around for danger and dont give yourself away as a tourist (very hard to do).

After a couple of hours at the central square and cathedral, i finally break down - it's hot, Im hungry and thirsty, the city is chaotic, noone speaks English, cars driving madly.... Fair enough, I didnt even give Lima a chance as arrived so tired and unprepared in the first place - so I'm sure its much better, I just didnt find the secret.

When almost close to tears, I remember one thing - which very possibly could save me from this city center madness! L'eau Vive - a quiet restaurant in a monastery run by French catholic nuns! Why would I go there? - because believe it or not but I met their 'Main sister/ Director' on the plane on my way into Lima, as we were sitting next to each other. As we started chatting (in French!!!) she saw my Lonely Planet book, briefly looked through it and opened the page where her Mission/ restaurant is named among 5 other recommended central Lima eateries! Couldnt believe my eyes - but she said if I happen to be in the neighbourhood, I should drop by.

Well i did and could really use a helpful hand and from whom better than a nun! I rang the door bell at the huge mansion wooden door, was luckily let in and soon met my Sister Marie-Jeanette. She was happy to see me again, in return I got some food, water, nice words and encouragament (as far as my French understanding goes) and a personally picked taxi for me to get back to the hostel (if you do it as a tourist, the price will be at least triple).

Leaving for Cuzco tomorrow morning, but before that - a nice chatty evening with cold white wine and the newly met American girls who'll also be exploring this part of South America for the next month.

(ps the night with American girls Bevan and Julie turned out to be a real success - it would be easier to incude topics that we DIDNt talk about. But we did cover NLP and Derren Brown´s mind reading, hobbies and starting up your own business, the right shape of eyebrows and more ....

1 comment:

  1. Hi Anna, you know, there is a restaurant Eau Vive run by French nuns in Bobo Dioulasso (Burkina Faso) too! I think it is a kind of international chain :-) Very good, quiet and homey.

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